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Author Topic: Finishing  (Read 2318 times)
Dumoit
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« on: April 19, 2010, 04:51:43 PM »

Hey Ryan,

I have some finishing questions for you.  I thought maybe if I posted here, you might answer?  Will send beer if necessary.

1.)  Is your handheld UV unit still for sale?  $$? 

2.)  If 1, then how hard is it to get a good, even cure with it?

3.)  Assuming I'm stuck with lacquer for the forseeable future, how many coats do you typically put on? 

4.)  I've found when I apply a colored lacquer first; especially a metallic; and then apply the clear coat, the color become blotchy, and/or the metallic loses it's 'metallic'.  Is this avoidable?

5.)  Is it safe to slap a 3M micron disc on my supercharged ridgid 6" ROS and sand the finish?  I'm paranoid, so I do it all by hand.

6.) What is the max humidity/min temp you've found is safe to apply lacquer?


Thanks!!!

-Jeremy
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Stike
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« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2010, 05:54:27 PM »

I can help with these

1. I hope not and it's broken.
2. Very easy to get a good cure although a little time consuming in a production environment.
3. For lacquer going over the sealer/color coats about 10-12 coats shooting 3-4 coats a day, at least an hour between coats, level sanding once every 3-4 coats.
4. You might not be spraying your color coats evenly. Not sure what the loss of metallic quality is.
5. 3M micron wont work on your Rigid. They use the Hook It II backing pad. By hand is not a bad thing, just use a good flat block when use sand.
6.  There's safe and then there's gotta get it done. Retarder and blush eraser is your friend.
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Dumoit
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« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2010, 07:23:05 PM »

Thanks for the info. 

How much do handheld UV units cost?  I'm on my last thread of patience with lacquer.  My garage in Houston has to be the worst place possible to spray lacquer. 
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Stike
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« Reply #3 on: April 21, 2010, 05:35:32 PM »

Thanks for the info. 

How much do handheld UV units cost?  I'm on my last thread of patience with lacquer.  My garage in Houston has to be the worst place possible to spray lacquer. 

Not cheap. http://www.cureuv.com/uv-power-shot-handheld.html
I'm not sure UV will be the best solution for a garage shop. There's bit of a learning curve and it's pretty damn smelly, even more so than lacquer.
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Dumoit
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« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2010, 07:42:49 AM »

That is expensive.  I saw Bayer makes some waterborne UV poly.  Have you tried it?
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Stike
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« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2010, 01:16:12 PM »

That is expensive.  I saw Bayer makes some waterborne UV poly.  Have you tried it?

No. Link?
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Dumoit
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« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2010, 01:55:08 PM »

http://www.bayermaterialsciencenafta.com/resources/d/document.cfm?Mode=view&f=1024781D-F9BE-B292-6F2FBC69511EBEAE&d=679BD8A9-F9D8-B2A3-5FCFC72A7DA2A273

I haven't been able to find a dealer.  May give Bayer a call. 
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RRGadow
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« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2010, 03:22:42 PM »

Id bet that its not worth a damn...just like every other water based finish. If it wont kill you, it wont look good.  grin
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Dumoit
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« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2010, 04:38:04 PM »

LMAO!
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Stike
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« Reply #9 on: April 27, 2010, 02:44:29 PM »

A lot of water based finishes are actually not very safe either. In reading that PDF it looks like that stuff is designed for flooring and other flat panel items meaning that if you try to shoot a guitar body it's going to run all over everywhere.
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Dumoit
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« Reply #10 on: April 28, 2010, 04:25:48 PM »

They have several varieties of the Bayhydrol product.  One might be suitable for guitars. 

I think the toxic part of most finishes is the solvent.  Even lacquer is safe to eat off of when all the solvent has evaporated (might take a year, I dunno).   

In your opinion, would my money be best prioritized by building a small spray booth, or pursuing the UV curing?  Maybe some of my frustration with lacquer is due to poor dust control, and inadequate ventilation? 
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Stike
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« Reply #11 on: April 28, 2010, 06:21:40 PM »

They have several varieties of the Bayhydrol product.  One might be suitable for guitars. 

I think the toxic part of most finishes is the solvent.  Even lacquer is safe to eat off of when all the solvent has evaporated (might take a year, I dunno).   

In your opinion, would my money be best prioritized by building a small spray booth, or pursuing the UV curing?  Maybe some of my frustration with lacquer is due to poor dust control, and inadequate ventilation? 

Some? I'll guess most. The UV finish is even less forgiving of dust.
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Dumoit
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« Reply #12 on: April 29, 2010, 04:55:30 AM »

Spray booth it is...
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tlenz
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« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2011, 03:03:21 PM »

Regarding the blotchy color coat and uneven metallic... 
You may be able to mitigate this problem by spraying the first couple of clear coats VERY dry.  If the first coat(s) of clear go on too wet, they tend to dissolve the color coat and re-float the pigment/metallic.  Spraying the first few clear coats dry provides a buffer between the color and the subsequent clear coats.  I'm not a professional - I've just learned from personal experience. 
I can also report that Pelham Blue Flying V will turn a very curious aluminum color if you spray a heavy coat of clear over it... but it's easier to do the second time.   
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